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Seed starting - preparing
Starting your own seedlings is not for everyone, but for me it is the most enjoyable part of gardening. I absolutely love watching the little guys sprout from the earth and then grow into full size plants. Starting your own plants from seed can save you a bundle too, since nursery prices can be quite high.
Before starting your own seeds, you need containers. Each container needs to have a drainage hole, and the container should be approximately 3″ deep. In the past I have used recycled containers, such as yogurt cups, milk cartons, soy milk boxes cut open, etc. I have since graduated to flats and ponies. If you invest in these, make sure to get several sizes of ponies, since transplanting will be necessary in the future. I also have a large selection of Speedling trays of varying sizes, which I recommend if you are serious about seed starting.
Next comes the complicated part - the seed starting mix. I’ve tried lots of different mixes, and yet I still don’t have a secret recipe. Remember: seeds in nature start in the dirt where they fall. I often feel that we ‘garden experts’ get too caught up in details, and forget that nature is quite versatile. Nonetheless, most books will recommend that you use a soil-less mix, although I’ve had good luck with soil. You want a mix that has good drainage, absorbs water, that is not high in nutrients, and is sterile. Do not go somewhere and pay full-price for sterile potting soil that is stored outside in the rain. This entirely defeats the purpose of buying sterile soil.
In the past, I’ve made my own seed starting mix using coco coir, pumice and perlite. Lately, I’ve gotten lazy and I go to my local nursery supply (City People’s Garden Store), and purchase a ready mixed seed starting compound. Either way, you’re bound to have some success.
Environmental conditions are important when you are starting seeds. I use a bottom heat propagation mat, and keep the seedlings at a constant 60-75F, depending on whether it is a cool or heat loving crop. Most seed packs will indicate the ideal germination temperature. if you are starting two varieties with varying requirements, split the difference.
Here in the Pacifc Northwest, there isn’t enough sunlight in February or March to sustain good growth. There are many theories on how much light seedling need to germinate, but my rule is 12 on and 12 off. That is, 12 hours of light, followed by 12 hours of darkness. I use florescent light fixtures, which must be placed a few inches over the top of the flats. If your seedlings stretch right away after germinating, then they are either too warm, or too far away from the light source.
Humidity and moisture are absolutely essential if you are planning to start seedlings. Keep the soil evenly moist until seedlings emerge. Use plastic bags, salad boxes, or floating row covers to prevent water from evaporating too quickly. I have also used saran wrap. Now, I use propagation domes, which are a nice treat if you want to spend the money. Apart from being re-usable, they can provide an ideal germinating environment. After seedlings emerge, take lids off and water less. It is best to let the soil dry out between watering. Soil that remains too wet causes ‘damping-off’ and fungus gnats, which will cause your seedlings to die or become stunted.
Note: Mastering the art of watering seed starts is relatively difficult. Be patient, and expect to lose some starts. Get a moisture meter, that way you can measure the amount of moisture in the beginning. Once you master the art of watering, you can put your moisture meter away.
Chamomile is a natural antiseptic, and prevents damp-off. Use on seed starting soil, seedlings and in humid planting areas. Chamomile contains calcium, potash, and sulfur, and the sulfur fights fungus! To make, pour boiling water over 1/4 cup of chamomile blossoms. Let steep and cool. Once cool, strain. This mixture will keep for approximately 1 week.
Stay tuned for more seed starting articles!
Happy gardening ~
Tags:cococoir containers perlite propagation pumice seedlings seeds sproutPosted by Boe on April 2nd, 2007 under Starting Plants
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